Arctic Honeymoon McQuade Style - Toppturer i Troms

It appears the McQuade's are fond of the colder months. After being wed in December at the old mining town resort, Dunton Hot Springs, which rests among Colorado's majestic San Juan mountains at a modest 8700'.

Kristin and Chuck McQuade - Dunton Wedding - December 8th  21012

click above DUNTON photo for more wedding pictures

We then honeymooned 200 miles north of the arctic circle, spending three weeks touring the famous Lyngen Alps and other sectors within the Troms region of northern Norway.

We spent roughly two years putting the trip together and waiting for author and guide for Midnight Sun Mountain Guides Espen Nordahl to finish the publication of his freshly English translated guidebook to the area. Not only was Espen key to the planning and execution of this once in a lifetime adventure, he also wrote in my opinion the best ski touring guidebook I've ever used. If your thinking of putting together a ski touring guidebook, I highly suggest a format similar to Espen's book.

Ski Touring in Troms    Freshly translated this winter to English

The Key Ingredients to 3 Weeks in Troms

1- Espen's fabulous guidebook, also the only guide to date for the area.

• Toppturer i Troms (Norwegian for Top Tours in Troms)

2- Beer

• Pictured here is Wagner Olut, Brewed by Olvi   Iisalmi, Finland 

3- Trucker hat and knee length base layer for spring time touring

4- Cant leave out Google Translate : an instrumental part in trip planning and converting entire Norwegian
          websites to English


So just where did we take this "exotic" honeymoon, where is the Troms region, where are the Lyngen Alps???  The interactive map below highlights the different sectors and peaks we toured during our stay in the Troms region of Norway.  Zoom out to see the relative location compared to other arctic locations, or zoom in to see the peaks and areas we toured in.  



    

 The "10-10-20 crew" - Drew, Sara Beth, Kristin, Me

On the summit of Fastdalstinden (North Lyngen Alps Sector)  with the Istinden and Store Kjostinden (store is Norwegian for large) massive in the background.  The following day we attempted Kjostinden (peak above our heads), but were turned around by bad low viability on the couloir above Kristin's head. Later in the trip Kristin and I go back yet again and summit on what turned out to be a beautiful day after hanging out for an hour or so below the couloir on the Rottenvikbreen (breen is Norwegian for glacier) waiting for a break in the sky

All Smiles on the Approach

Hard to not be smiling on a day as clear as this one.  Here we were on the long yet beautiful approach across the Rottenvikvatnet (vatnet is Norwegian for lake) giving access to Fastdalstinden (right edge of photo) and the Store Kjostinden and Istinden peaks in the background.  If you click on pic and zoom in an exposed piece of the Rottenvik glacier can be seen

Genesis 65 - Our mobile abode for the 3 weeks

After this trip we are big fans of the Bobil (norwegian for motorhome).  What a perfect way to tour the Troms region of time, eat sleep and then drive your home right underneath the peak and ski!  Jan Børre of iCaravan runs an awesome business out of the town Fagernes and has several sized bobil's for rent.

    Cucumber Infused Vodka - Bobil Style

Because of the high prices of alcohol in Norway as well as the difficulty of finding anything other then beer in the small towns, we found it important to buy your liquor at the duty free shops in the airports:)  A little pearl for traveling to Norway.

 Barn in the tiny village of Susannajorda

After getting shutdown halfway up Buren peak  (Kvaloya Sector) due to insanely high winds we decided to walk along the Kaldfjorden (fjorden is Norwegian for fjord).  Kind of odd walking along the water in ski gear:)

Caribou on Buren peak or is it Reindeer?

Can anyone answer this question Caribou vs Reindeer? (In Norwegian villrein vs reinsdyr)

Fastdalstinden Summit Shenanigans - Already getting the Boot from the Wife

 Bobil Disco - SB and Drew Dawg

Akinz Kid - Guerrilla Marketing

Sporting an Akinz (Fort Collins CO) trucker hat as he arrives into the upper basin below Store Russetinden (Balsfjord Sector) with Balsfjorden behind.

A Ones Board?... ahh JONES

Drew showing his splitty off as we play along the Buktelva (Bukt Norweigian for Bay and Telva Norwegian for River) after coming down from Store Russetinden

A-Frame Em - Store Kjostinden Summit Push

Istinden's summit is seen in the background with the Rottenvikbreen below.  An hour earlier we were sitting down on the glacier eating lunch wondering if the snow would stop and the skies would clear :)

Istinden and Brevasstinden looming in the background

Taken from the summit of Store Kjostinden (North Lyngen Alps Sector) with near perfect views after a short snow storm while crossing the Rottenvikbreen glacier earlier.  This ones for you Drew and SB, since we all got shut down on a previous attempt on Store Kjostinden.

Sun Hole on  Storhaugen Peak

Kristin soaking up the sun before the clouds over the north Lyngen Alps intrude on our climb up Storhaugen Peak (Kafjord Alps Sector).   The small town below the peak is Djupvik and Spakenes.  We camped here in the RV a few nights on the very tip of the Spakenesmyra (myra is Norwegian for marsh) to be greeted by the beautiful 0300 sunrise.

  0300 Sunrise looking beyond Uloya from our Bobil camp at Spakenesmyra

 Tragedy on Storhaugen - Women Falls 700 Meters from Summit

Upon finishing Storhaugen peak and returning to the trail head a newspaper reporter asked if we were involved in the tragic accident in anyway.  We had seen a rescue helicopter fly overhead in the direction of Tromso many hours before as we started our tour.  We learned from the reporter and a local the next day showed us the newspaper article, that the women was on day one of a several day guided trip with Lyngen Lodge , reports say she instinctively lunged for a ski while transitioning near the summits east face cornice, which broke sending here over the near vertical east face of Storhaugen Peak.   

Lutefisk - Local Nordnes Fisherman

During our travels to the Kafjord Alps we passed through the small village of ten or so houses, Nordnes, here we spotted a fish drying structure that actually had fish hanging and drying.  We had spotted these drying huts all over the coastline during our trip, but most were unused.  The drying huts are used by northern Norwegian fisherman to make Lutefisk, a traditional dish of the Nordic countries. It is made from aged whitefish, usually cod.  Lut (Norwegian for lye) is used as a preservative in the air-drying process, and has an extremely strong, pungent odor.  We did not try any Lutefisk on the trip :(

Perspective - They Made em Big in Norway

Kristin on the western ridge of Sorbmegaisa peak (Kafjord Alps Sector) with the impressive views of north Lyngen Alps across the fjord.  Across the way is Store Vaggastinden 

Summit Smoked Salmon

Brought all the way to Norway from Alaska by Sara Beth, who caught and smoked em.  What a treat this was, no more PBJ for me.  Behind me are the Kafjord Alps

Such Docile Creatures - The Caribou

We stumbled across this guy as we skinned through the small village of Tomasnes on our approach to Store Lakselvtindane (south Lyngen Alps Sector).  His antlers at one time were made of rebar.

The Very Popular - Store Kjostinden and Istinden

 From the summit of Fastdalstinden (North Lyngen Alps Sector), these three peaks are a popular playground for the nearby famous Lyngen town of Lyngseidet.  This town is popular launching point for many skiers during the Lyngen Alps high season March-May.  There are a few lodging options here if you don't take the Bobil method of lodging.  The Magic Mountain Lodge and Camp Kviteberg.  Kristin and I checked out both places as we had been communicating with both owners while planning our trip.  David the owner of Camp Kviteberg, was gracious enough to invite us in for beers and a chat with himself his wife and their three kiddos.  What a nice family, and David is a wealth of knowledge regarding ski info for the area, he also guides if needed. 

 Sunset & Reflections - With the Moon Over Manfjellet

A view from our Bobil at 2300, still plenty of daylight to be had at almost midnight.  Kristin and I make dinner taking in the perfect mirror image of Mannfjellet (fjellet is Norwegian for mountain) reflected in the Storfjorden fjord.

   Summit Yoga - Karltinden

Who doesn't want to do some summit yoga when the conditions and views are this amazing!  Behind us is the western side of the north Lyngen Alps.  All taken in from Karltinden (Mainland Troms Sector) which provided jaw dropping views of both north and south Lyngen sectors.

Namdalfjellet

Taken from below treeline along the Vargedalen (Norwegian for valley) on our ascent to Karltinden (Mainland Troms Sector).

Climbing Tomasrenna Couloir - Store Lakselvtinden

This mega classic line climbs the impressive Tomasrenna couloir of Store Lakselvtinden (south Lyngen Alps Sector) for some 600 vertical meters before reaching the Den himmelske freds plass (Norwegian for Gate of Heavenly Peace) glacier.  What a breath taking area.

The Epitome of Accomplishment

What beats a nice brew and a hand warm after a long day on Store Lakselvtinden.

 Two Story Barn - Kafjord Alps

The barns around Troms always seemed to catch my eye, this one we came across after our tour of Sorbmegaisa peak (Kafjord Alps Sector) during our decent back to the road.  Behind the barn is yet another tireless view of the north Lyngen Alps.  

 Summit Pleasures - Middagstinden 

Another bright glorious day, here Kristin preps for the ride down from Middagstinden (south Lyngen Alps Sector) The splendid peaks rising an additional 300 meters in the background are Piggtinden and Storvasstinden. 

 Old Breivikeidet Ferry Dock

Taken as Kristin and I watch the weather clear before a tour up Karltinden (Mainland Troms Sector).  Across the Ullsfjorden fjord to views of Storttinden and Isskardtindane (North Lyngen Alps Sector). 

Midway Point Chair - Middagstinden

When the weather a bit on the cooler side we would take our time summiting to allow the snowpack time to warm up and soften to allow for corn riding.  We got pretty crafty at digging rather comfortable ski and pack assisted chairs while enjoying the sun and lunch.  

 Taking our time seemed to pay off on this peak, once we hit the summit we hung out for an hour or so drinking Pat's backcountry beer and taking in the views.

Pat's Backcountry - Beta Testing Beer

This stuff rocks!  Yep that's right beer concentrate in a Gu sized package, just add carbonation via the special patented carbonator and its salt citric acid packages.  The beer is still being tweaked check out the website for updates!

Cod De-header?

Hobbit Home? or TorvTaket?

We came across this yurt as we crossed through the small village of Tomasnes.  The "sod roof" is somewhat popular in the Scandinavian countries. The term "sod roof" is however  misleading, as the active, water-tight element of the roof is birch bark. The main purpose of the sod is to hold the birch bark in place. The roof might just as well have been called a "birch bark roof", but its grassy outward appearance is the reason for its name torvtaket (Norwegian for turf roof)

       The Bootpack'n Babe - Store Lakselvtinden

Kristin did most of the work breaking the bootpack in for the four of us.  The rest of us just wore out too quickly:)

 OOPS - Eyes on the Road.....Drew

If it wasnt for this nice lad and his mother we still may be in Norway trying to get the Bobil out of the snowbank and back on the road.  She saw us all armed with our avalanche shovels trying to dig away the snowbank, then cruised down from her house with her tractor and yanked us right out.  Thank goodness for her quick assistance, we even toured Blatinden (Mainland Troms Sector)  peak shortly after the rescue.  Blatinden peak was the proposed venue for the downhill races in the 2018 Winter Olympics, however Tromso was not chosen

.   

Lutefisk - The Drying Process

Storttinden Peak above the Village of Svensby

Traffic Director

 Mack Brygger (Norwegian for Brewery) - Tromso City

Founded in 1877 and claims to be the northern most brewery in the world.  We drank our fair share of Mack brews, not bad, even coming from a couple of hop heads. 

  Piggtinden and Storvasstinden - from Middagstinden Summit

Thanks Troms , Norway!  What a Honeymoon!  - From The "10-10-20 crew"

 

AK Livin'

When the McQuade's head to AK its to enjoy the near perfect hilariously deep snowpack of the Chugach.  Typically enjoying long tours with friends supplemented with summit top beers or....mini shooters?  Usually we trade in Colorado's incomparable bluebird days for a week of AK Livin' and amazing split tours.  Key word being USUALLY...This trip was wild!  There was no trading of clear blue skies here.  We toured all 6 days underneath the definition of bluebird skies! Colorado you would of been proud.  So what did we trade in for a week of Ak Livin' We needed to trade something in... right?  So we decided to sacrifice hours of skinning.  You know that fun but sometimes painfully continuous climb up endless vertical feet, to gain that super-long untouched white canvas to carve up.  Yup yup we traded it in for a day...for a snow machine bump.  That's right...Sled-Necks for a day!  Great fun! and hey babe by the way....if ...your looking for that perfect Christmas gift idea :) :)

        

Livin' It Up AK Style

3/15 - Manitoba to Silvertip Traverse:

An overview of the tour can be seen below, followed by a few different views of the endless terrain of the sector.  The day however turned into a few laps off of Manitoba thanks to a monster of a cornice looming over the apex of the ridges connecting the two peaks.  Once we all reached the summit of Manitoba and spotted the short-bus sized cornice, plan B started going through all of our heads....summit mini's?  

Overview of Manitoba to Silvertip Traverse

Ridge Traverse

East Face Descent off  Silvertip

Puckering Cornice Crux
click on photo and zoom in at the meeting point all the three ridge lines

The Ladies Plan B - Sarah Beth and K

Give Me Back My Tequila Rose - Sarah Beth and Anson

3/16 - Tenderfoot Ridge

Awesome new sector, away from the Turnagain Pass crowds, with easy access and a wealth of options from tree skiing to steep narrow couloirs.  Below is a overview of the access point from the tip of Summit Lake, allowing for a ski back to the car if one returns to the lower half of Tenderfoot after skiing back further in the basins.  We skied a few laps of the SW face of upper Tenderfoot Ridge, then skied W traversing out of the basin back towards the lower section of the ridge, which allows for another nice run back down to the car.  

Overview of Tenderfoot Ridge Sector

Tenderfoot Up-Track Recycle - Anson

Cloudless Reflections

3/17 - Sled Neckin' Pyramid Peak

Pyramid Peak is the eye catching peak often noticed as you fill up your car......oh ya and sled at the Girdwood Tesoro gas station.  Pyramid Pk rises roughly 3400' right from the waters edge of the Turnagain Arm.  Its west face provides a perfect 3000' shot.  Well almost perfect....minus yet another monster of a cornice.  Even though the cornice killed the chances of bragging  to the guy next to me during the next Tesoro fill up..."see those lines on Pyramid?"..."yup my wife rips"  We still got to cut out those long miles skinning, got to play sled-necks for a day, had a near 3000' vert run off the SW shoulder of Pyramid Peak, followed by two more long runs as we worked our way back to the car being picked up and escorted to the next drop point by our friends.  Who by the way probably skied 16,000 vert as they ghosted their sleds down the mountain.  Ghost Riding: basically push your sled down the mountain, once it comes to a stop you ski down after it, then ride it back up and repeat.  Awesome
  

Overview of Pyramid Pk - intended W face in red - rode yellow line

Sled-Neckin' - Darcie Badass and K 
aspect skied on pyramid pk in background

Wolverine Sector 
taken from summit of Pyramid Pk

Yin & Yang AK Style - Wolverine Pk with Shadows crawling from Sharksfin and Eddies
taken from Seattle Ridge at sunset during final run back to the car

3/18 - Peterson Creek

Can't wait to go back to this sector!  So many lines!  The ascent is a bit of a booger, involving creek crossings early on at lower elevation, then choosing to ascend the steep head wall below the upper basin, or heading back along the drainage and wrapping back to the right to the upper basin, both approaches keep you among avalanche terrain for the majority of the approach. 

Peterson Creek Cirque - center of pic
taken from summit of Pyramid Pk

 

Peterson Creek Goodness - after ascending the lower head wall

AK Livin' at its Best

Peterson Creek Head Wall - Dan In Route from Upper Basin Goods to Creek Approach
Notice the shadow being cast by Pyramid Peak in the background

3/19 - Tincan Ridge "Todd's Run"

It was Day 6 and time to return to CO thus we needed a familiar tour...as priorities were 1) a rad long line 2) time for midnight sun brewery après beers and 3) try not to miss our flight as we both worked the same day we landed in CO.  A recipe for "Todd's Run" as called by the locals, was named after Todd who was killed on the line as the entire bowl ripped out.  I don't dynamite could even get anything to move during our week visit.  Stability was like nothing us Colorado-ans will ever see:)  K and I had skied it a few years back, and it was still well a "rad long line"

Overview of  "Todd's Run" - 3000'

All 3000' of Todd's - pic's center 
taken from summit of Pyramid Pk
Notice the peak in lower right corner - the tracks are from the gang Ghost Riding 

Tincan Ridge - Sarah Beth and K

Bootin' - Tincan Ridge

Til Next Time